There is a moment, when you first strap on the smaller of these two limited editions, that you realise how rarely a watch can be both a conversation starter and a chameleon. The Ace Jewelers x NOMOS Metro neomatik Orange is a testament to the power of thoughtful design, a vibrant splash of orange that manages to feel both audacious and understated. Created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Amsterdam-based retailer, this duo of watches represents a significant milestone, not just for the partnership between the two brands, but for the Metro collection itself [citation:1][citation:3][citation:5].

The collaboration, which began in 2017 with the Orion "100 Years De Stijl," has resulted in eight previous watches, but this is the first time the Metro has been chosen as the canvas [citation:2][citation:6]. This is partly because the Metro holds a sacred place in NOMOS's lineup, and any limited edition requires the explicit approval of its original designer, Mark Braun [citation:2][citation:3]. That Braun, who also happens to have been born in 1975—the same year Ace Jewelers was founded—personally curated the shades of orange, adds an extra layer of meaning to this celebration [citation:2][citation:5].

First Impressions: Two Sizes, One Cohesive Vision

Out of their respective boxes, the two watches present a study in symmetry. The 35mm ref. 1106.S1 and the 38.5mm ref. 1113.S1 share the same elegant, minimalist design language: slim, polished stainless steel cases with fine wire lugs that harken back to early trench watches [citation:2][citation:6]. At just 8.1mm and 8.4mm thick respectively, they are svelte companions designed to slip effortlessly under a cuff [citation:2][citation:5].

The 35mm version, with its 42.1mm lug-to-lug, feels compact and refined, a perfect fit for those who prefer a more restrained presence [citation:1][citation:4]. The larger 38.5mm model, with a 45.5mm lug-to-lug, offers a slightly more substantial feel while retaining the collection's characteristic elegance [citation:1][citation:8]. Both are finished with domed sapphire crystals and sapphire display casebacks, offering a window into the mechanical heart of the watch [citation:4][citation:6].

The design language here is a testament to the brand's philosophy of wearable art, a concept that distinguishes it from the output of a typical Men Watches Manufacturer focused on mass appeal.

Dial Details: The Art of Inverted Orange

The dials are where the collaboration truly shines. The two watches feature an inverted colour scheme: the 35mm model sports a darker, terracotta-like orange dial with a lighter, almost yellow-tinged sub-seconds register at 6 o'clock [citation:2][citation:5]. The 38.5mm version flips the script, with a brighter orange main dial and a darker, burnt orange sub-dial [citation:3][citation:6]. It's a cohesive story told through two distinct expressions.

As one reviewer noted, "I could easily see either model comfortably serving as a person’s everyday timekeeping companion" [citation:2]. The black syringe-style hands, the red "neomatik" text, and the printed minute track all work in harmony to create a dial that is both legible and a feast for the eyes. This thoughtful approach to colour stands as a counterpoint to the often formulaic designs produced by many Watch Factories In China focused on high-volume production.

Each watch is mounted on a black Horween Shell Cordovan strap with quick-release spring bars, a detail that adds to the sense of considered, high-quality craftsmanship [citation:1][citation:8].

Movement Mechanics: The DUW 3001 Under the Hood

Both watches are powered by the NOMOS in-house Calibre DUW 3001, an ultra-thin automatic movement measuring just 3.2mm in height [citation:4][citation:6]. This slender architecture is what allows the Metro neomatik models to maintain their elegant, svelte profiles. The movement beats at 21,600vph and offers a power reserve of 43 hours [citation:1][citation:5].

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is a testament to traditional Glashütte watchmaking: a three-quarter plate construction, tempered blue screws, and rhodium-plated surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and perlage [citation:1][citation:6]. The proprietary NOMOS Swing System escapement, a key component of the DUW 3001, ensures high precision and efficiency, with the caliber boasting an impressive 94.2% efficiency rate [citation:1][citation:2].

This level of technical sophistication, paired with a price point that makes such quality accessible, sets the Metro apart from the offerings of many Wrist Watch Manufacturer that might compromise on movement finishing.

Two Opposing Views: The Collector's Crossroads

During my time with the watch, I encountered several sharply divided perspectives:

Viewpoint A (The Enthusiast): "This is the collaboration we've been waiting for. Mark Braun's personal involvement in curating the colours is a masterstroke. The orange is vibrant yet wearable, and the Metro is the perfect canvas for it. The fact that it's a true limited edition of 50 pieces, with the first ten sold as sets, adds a genuine collector's appeal. At around €3,500, it's a steal for a NOMOS with such a story."

Viewpoint B (The Skeptic): "The watches are beautiful, but they're also a product of hype. It's a dial colour change, and while the orange is nice, it's not a new complication or a groundbreaking design. For this price, you could explore other options in the NOMOS lineup with more versatility. The limited edition status feels like a marketing lever to drive sales, not a reflection of true horological innovation."

Viewpoint C (The Pragmatist): "The watch is a solid performer, and the value proposition is fair. The DUW 3001 is an excellent movement, and the Bauhaus design is timeless. However, the orange dial, while unique, limits its versatility. It's a great summer watch or a statement piece, but it's not a watch for every occasion. For those who love the colour, it's a fantastic choice. For others, it might be a watch you wear a few times a year."

These perspectives capture the central tension: is the Ace × NOMOS Metro neomatik Orange a masterclass in wearable art, or a niche product with limited appeal? The answer, as with most polarizing collaborations, is likely subjective.

The Verdict: Who Should Buy This Watch?

After weeks of wear, I have concluded that this vibrant duo is a celebration of colour and collaboration. The Ace × NOMOS Metro neomatik Orange is a watch for the collector who values personal expression over conventional style. It's a watch that rewards a second glance: the more you look, the more you appreciate the careful curation of its unique orange hues, the craftsmanship of the DUW 3001 movement, and the story behind its creation.

The lingering question—whether the orange dial enhances or limits the watch's wearability—will remain a matter of personal preference. But perhaps that is the essence of the collection: it captures a moment, a vibrant personality, and invites you to enjoy the time ticking in its orange vitality [citation:1].

One final thought: the Ace × NOMOS Metro neomatik Orange is a reminder that a watch can be both a technical instrument and a bold statement of style. It's a tribute to 50 years of a family-run business and a testament to the power of a well-chosen colour.

Featured image: The Ace Jewelers x NOMOS Metro neomatik Orange, showcasing the 35mm and 38.5mm models with their vibrant, inverted orange dials.