I. The Collage Of Darkness

The image is a study in monochrome. Three watches, all Maurice Lacroix Aikons, arranged in a collage. But these are not the standard Aikons with their steel cases and integrated bracelets. These are the “Lab Powered By Label Noir” editions: fully blacked out, with dark dials, dark coatings, and a menacing, stealth aesthetic. The only variation is in the strap material and the subtle texture of the dial. One has a black rubber strap. One has a black leather strap. One has a black ceramic bracelet. All are black. And yet, they are not identical.

The Lab is Maurice Lacroix’s customization platform. You start with an Aikon base (the brand’s integrated-bracelet sports watch, which resembles a certain royal octagon but is distinct in its own way). Then you choose the case finish (steel, black PVD, rose gold PVD), the dial color, the strap material, and even the rotor design. The Label Noir collaboration adds a layer of extreme customization: every component is blacked out, from the hands to the indexes to the movement. It is the Aikon for the person who thinks a black watch is not black enough.

This essay is a hands-on exploration of the Lab platform and the Label Noir editions. We will look at the customization options, the appeal of a modular watch, and the very real trade-offs. We will also consider opposing views—because not everyone loves the blacked-out look—and we will leave you with a few questions about the future of co-creation in watchmaking.

 

II. The Lab: Build-Your-Own Aikon

The Lab is Maurice Lacroix’s answer to the growing demand for personalization. You visit the website (or a boutique), select a base model, and then choose from a range of options. The choices are not infinite—this is not a fully bespoke service—but they are meaningful.

**Case:** Stainless steel, black PVD, or rose gold PVD. The black PVD is the most popular, especially for the Label Noir edition.

**Dial:** A dozen colors, including blue, green, gray, and white. For the Label Noir, the dial is also black, but with a subtle sunburst or textured finish.

**Strap:** Rubber, leather, or a steel bracelet. The rubber straps come in multiple colors; the leather straps are available with contrast stitching.

**Rotor:** You can choose the color and finish of the automatic winding rotor, visible through the display caseback.

The process is intuitive. You see a rendering of your watch as you make choices. The price updates in real time. Once you confirm, the watch is assembled to your specifications and shipped within a few weeks.

The Label Noir collaboration takes this a step further. Label Noir is a Swiss customization house known for blacking out watches (DLC coating, black hands, black date wheels). The collaboration watches are not just black PVD cases; they have black movements (modified with black coatings), black hands, black indices, and black date discs. They are as close to a completely black watch as you can get without losing legibility entirely.

 

III. Three Honest Oppositions: Why The Blacked-Out Aikon Is Not For Everyone

For every collector who loves the stealth look, there is another who finds it impractical or gimmicky. Here are three reasonable objections.

 

Opposition One: “It Is Impossible To Read In Low Light”

The first objection is functional. A black watch with black hands and black indices is difficult to read. The Label Noir Aikon uses white luminous material on the hands and indices, but in dim light, the contrast is minimal. In a dark room, you cannot read it at all. For a daily wear watch, this is a serious flaw.

The counter-argument is that the Label Noir Aikon is not meant to be a tool watch. It is a fashion accessory, a statement piece. You wear it for the look, not for legibility. And in most lighting conditions (office, outdoors, restaurant), it is readable enough. The suspense is whether buyers accept this trade-off or feel frustrated.

 

Opposition Two: “The PVD Coating Will Scratch And Fade”

The second objection is about durability. PVD (physical vapor deposition) coatings are hard, but they are not invincible. A sharp knock can chip the coating, revealing the steel underneath. Over years of wear, the black coating will show scratches and the edges will fade. A scratched black watch looks worse than a scratched steel watch.

The counter-argument is that PVD coatings have improved dramatically. Modern coatings are very durable. And the Aikon’s case shape (with its protective bezel) reduces the risk of edge hits. Moreover, a worn black watch can look cool—like a well-used tool. The suspense is whether owners will accept patina on a black watch or demand perfection.

 

Opposition Three: “It Is A Copy Of A Copy”

The third objection is about originality. The Aikon’s design is clearly inspired by the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws). The Label Noir blacked-out version is even closer to the Royal Oak “Black Panther” or other black ceramic APs. Critics argue that the Aikon is a homage watch, and the Label Noir is a homage of a homage. It lacks originality.

The counter-argument is that every integrated-bracelet sports watch owes a debt to the Royal Oak. But the Aikon has its own identity: the “claw” shape of the bezel, the five-link bracelet, the distinct case profile. And the Lab customization adds a layer of personalization that AP does not offer. The suspense is whether the market will ever accept the Aikon as a legitimate design in its own right.

 

IV. The Unseen Supply Chain: From Oldest Manufacturers To Metal Bands And Indigo Dials

Maurice Lacroix is a Swiss brand, founded in 1975. It is not among the Oldest Watch Manufacturers (which include Vacheron Constantin, Blancpain, and Breguet, with centuries of history). But it has built a reputation for accessible luxury and interesting complications. The Lab platform is a modern innovation, but the watches are still assembled in Switzerland using Swiss movements.

The bracelet on the standard Aikon is a steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp. For the Label Noir edition, the bracelet is black PVD-coated steel. But a buyer could also choose a different metal bracelet. Wholesale Metal Watch Bands are available in a variety of finishes and materials, from stainless steel to titanium to black PVD. Swapping the bracelet is one of the easiest ways to customize a watch after purchase.

And what of the dial? The Label Noir uses a black dial, but the Lab platform offers many colors. Imagine an Aikon with a Wholesale Indigo Watch Dials—a deep, blue-black color that evokes denim or the night sky. Indigo is darker than navy, lighter than black, and has a subtle richness. An indigo-dialed Aikon with a steel bracelet would be a completely different watch: less stealth, more classic. The supply chain for custom dials exists; the only question is whether Maurice Lacroix will expand its color palette.

 

V. The Unanswered Questions: Is The Lab The Future Of Watch Buying?

After exploring the Lab platform and the Label Noir editions, I am left with three questions that every collector must answer for themselves.

**First:** Do you value customization over resale value? A customized watch is unique to you, but it may be harder to sell. A standard Aikon will have a broader appeal. If you plan to keep the watch forever, customize away. If you flip watches often, stick to standard.

**Second:** Is the blacked-out look a lasting trend or a passing fad? Black watches have been popular for a decade, but tastes change. A black watch that is impossible to read might feel dated in the future. An indigo dial might age better. I do not know.

**Third:** And most personally—would I rather have one fully customized Aikon or two standard Aikons in different colors? The Lab watch costs more than a standard Aikon. For the same money, you could buy two. The suspense is whether the joy of personalization is worth the reduced quantity.

 

VI. The Dark Aikon And The Light Of Choice

We began with a collage of three black watches. We have examined the Lab platform, the Label Noir collaboration, and three reasonable objections. We have traced the supply chain of oldest manufacturers, metal bands, and indigo dials. And we have left three questions unanswered.

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Lab Powered By Label Noir is not a watch for everyone. It is not for the collector who values legibility above all else. It is not for the person who finds black watches boring. But it is for the enthusiast who wants to co-create, who wants a watch that reflects their taste rather than a brand’s catalog. The Lab gives you choices. The Label Noir gives you darkness. Together, they offer a vision of watchmaking where the buyer is also the designer.

That vision is not the future. It is already here. The question is whether you will participate.